Day 3-Closed Loops and Closed roads
- Emily
- Nov 11, 2017
- 7 min read
Updated: Dec 29, 2019
Today I checked out of my first hostel.
"Cool....." Is what you're thinking with a slightly sardonic tone. "You can check out of a hostel..."
Yes but the "scary" part comes next. I didn't have any idea where I was going to be sleeping tonight. I had nothing booked, no idea if I was going to try to make it back to Reykjavik or what. But I left, and I didn't panic and just book another night at the same place. That's an easy out. I didn't challenge myself to travel here for easy outs.
But I did leave, and then I sat in my car and had a long moment where I asked myself what I was doing. I don’t know if it shows, but I’m very unsure of myself. Almost always.
And this trip has been a crazy ride of proving myself right (I don’t know what the F*** I’m doing) and trusting myself. (I literally am in a foreign country where almost none of the signs are in English just hoping I’ll find something).
So I kind of panicked a little, and I decided the least I could do was to get some groceries for my car for emergencies/ long drives.
Yeah, foreign country, adventure of a lifetime, annnd let’s go grocery shopping to stem the anxiety.
So I got food and then I finally made my way to the part of the golden circle I didn’t make the previous day.
The “problem” was I had to go through Þingvellir again. And pass by Geysir again. It’s hard to complain since the scenery is so beautiful. And bonus, since the previous night’s snow the landscape looked different. Not drastically so (because it had snow on the ground previously) but now there were piles of it, and I was driving on snowy roads. The sky was different, and the roads were a lot less crowded. It was like everyone was staying in yesterday.
I do have some comparison shots of the same stop I made both days in a row. (Because of course I had to stop several times again).
And while I didn’t stop at Þingvellir again, I did stop a little past it. Where apparently you can still walk to the guest center from this trailhead I was at. And while I was there, I came upon a tour group that was pointing out that this particular location I was at was in Game of Thrones. I don’t think it was a G.o.T. tour though, just something that guide could throw in. Kind of cool, but I couldn’t picture the scene so looks like I’ll have to do a bit of re-watching.
Drove through the park again. SO, fun fact, they’re super strict about speed limits here, (I mean every country technically is, but I hear it’s really bad here.) and going through Þingvellir, they slow the speed to 50 km/h. Now, I haven’t been speeding here, and they have the signs that let you know how fast you’re going. If you’re going below, they actually flash a smiley face at you! And a guy in front of me sped away, and he got a frowney face. Womp womp.
Stopped a few more times on my way to Gullfoss. I had to stop and take some pictures with an Icelandic pony. (It was for you mom!) And a few more just scenic shots. I passed Geysir again, (even more quickly then last time) and made it to Gullfoss.
When I got there, the temperature was dropping and dropping fast. But I had a good coat, hat and gloves. But the hat was new…so new in fact I bought it the previous day, and it’s furry and warm and I’m in love with it. But it’s a hat from a major outfitting brand and they had left the security tag on when I bought it. In my excitement I didn’t notice till today but everytime I put it on, I was nervous about being labelled as a thief. So luckily at Gullfoss, the people in its’ store were kind enough to remove the tag for me.
Hooray! I can wear my hat in peace.
Now that I was truly bundled up now, I made my way to the falls. They say it’s more powerful than Niagra (I’ve never been to compare), and all around a better waterfall than anywhere else in the world. (Except it doesn’t have the height?)
The crowds were all here apparently, and photographers abounded everywhere. I saw drone pilots, I saw dozens of tripods, and cameras on every neck. Whatever though. I’m taking pictures for me, and that’s all that matters. So I snap away, and start walking down the path to get a different angle. A couple stops me, asks if I’ll take their picture. “Sure!”
*Click*
*Click*
“Let me know if they’re good.”
“They’re great.”
“Cool”
“Would you like one?”
Reciprocating photo takers! Why not. So the woman grabs my camera and it’s my wide angle. She takes a step back, several more, and is pointing the camera so I’m not even looking at it dead on. She snaps a picture, and I can only say that it reminds me of “A Christmas Story”.
I look super cozy.
After them, several more couples asked for me to take their picture. It was some cases of they saw me take someone else’s photos, and some where I just looked approachable? I guess? One of the last families that asked said I should start charging.
Guys, I was the “it” photographer. Sure it was at an Icelandic tourist spot in November, but I was the one everyone wanted. I better not let the fame get to my head.
A few more pictures later, it was time to go. It was probably around 4ish. Had another, ‘WHAT DO I DOOOOO’ moment because I was like 2 hours from it getting dark and I had no clue where I was going to stay. Because at Gullfoss at 4ish, the sun was low in the sky. The darkness was coming. I don’t know if it’s instinctual, this anxiety that comes with the setting sun and no shelter, but it weighed on me heavily. Ultimately, I decided I would go back to Reykjavik for the night. Worse comes to worse, there’s somewhere to stay.
At Gullfoss, it would take me an hour to get to Reykjavik. I decided to try for Þjórsárdalur, the Viking ruins, anyways. Only added another hour to my trip. Cool! Except that the temperature drop I had mentioned earlier caused my “Low Tire Pressure” warning to come on. S*** right? There’s not a lot of gas stations around Iceland, (I didn’t realize how much I took gas for granted in the states) and I’m not even sure if they have air for tires at station. Þjórsárdalur might have to wait. But I start driving, cause there’s certainly no air at Gullfoss. And I was hoping (after the initial panic) that maybe it was just the cold, and once the car got moving the air pressure would go back up, you know. Like physics does.
And luckily it did and relatively quickly. Þjórsárdalur was back on. But unfortunately, it was just more scenic driving. Unfortunate for you, not for me. I’m enjoying myself but there’s not much to say about driving through Iceland. It’s something you need to experience for yourself. It’s beautiful, but pictures don’t do it justice. Words are descriptive, but become repetitive. Sorry all.
I’ll try a little of it though.
I passed by several farmlands filled with sheep, round in shape because of all their wool. Little clouds drifting on a light green grass, as an orange sun sank behind them. The roads become winding, passing through and over small hills and by mountains. A river emerges from a field, cutting a swath in the landscape, light reflecting off of blue waters. It widens and the road narrows to a one lane bridge. The river has picked up its pace, small white rapids bounding over rocky shores passing underneath the bridge and moving on its way. A turn in the road, away from the major city, towards the longest river in Iceland that powers a good portion of the island. Huge landscapes to my right, a river immediately to my right and a rising mountain to my left. Grasslands extend as far as the eye can see, green and white, and black with stones. The river has a slower pace and has frozen sheets sporadically placed on its surface.
I drove and drove and the landscape was wild. When I got to the end of my GPS directions, I tried going to Hekla, a volcano that said it was only 15 km away. And I started driving that way and it took me up a mountain that leveled out into huge plains on either side. With just one little road cutting between the two. And this road wasn’t super maintained, and there were constructions vehicles peppered along the way. The sun was down by now, but there was still some light in the sky. It was also like….6 ish. And I’m the only one on this road. A few jeeps and super-jeeps had passed me by, but it’s just me for the most part. Going along pretty confidently when all of a sudden, a closed road side flew by on the side of the road. Well, it might have been a road closed sign. It’s just an exclamation point. Which according to the rules of the road given to me by the rental company….that’s what that means. The road didn’t look closed? But down a ways, I could see a big construction vehicle working on something. And the road was covered in snow except for two tire tracks.
Was it closed?
Would it become impassable?
Was it a “You can try but we won’t bail you out”?
I decided to not risk it.
I’m still from Florida, and this is still one of the only times I’ve ever driven in this weather.
Turned around, started the long journey to Reykjavik. It’s almost completely dark by now, and completely dark by 7. The road is well lit, but I’m exhausted. Watching the sun go down is tiring. I had to stop several times cause I needed to close my eyes, but as soon as I stopped, I’d feel better and 20 minutes later the process would repeat. It was rough.
I made it to Reykjavik around 8ish. Got a bed at a hostel. Got some dinner (it was a slice of pizza! Shame.)
Then I sat in the community kitchen to blog, chatted with other hostelers, and made my way to bed.
And then I finished this post on the morning of the 11th.



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